ANCIENT WAREHOUSE REBORN AS BEER
GARDEN
Beer on the waterfront
René A. Castaño
Salazar Photos:
Alberto Borrego
The
renovation of Havana Bay has taken another step
forward in efforts to convert this former industrial
district into a modern recreational space for
residents and visitors with the opening of an
attractive beer garden on the waterfront, named
Cervecería Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y el Tabaco
(Old Wood and Tobacco Warehouse Brewery).
Located near the Alameda de Paula and the
redeveloped San José warehouses, the site houses a
mini-brewery equipped with Austrian technology and
supplies. With a capacity for 430 persons, designers
have harmoniously integrated functionality and
contemporary style in a comfortable, spacious area.

Brewmasters Wandy Márquez and Belquis
González operate equipment preparing barley which
will used to brew beer.
The
original architecture of the warehouse's metal
structure, a jewel of Cuba's industrial heritage,
was preserved, as were a few elements related to the
building's former purpose, such as the lifts
situated in the higher reaches of the interior
corners and the rail lines, complete with
locomotive, recalling the early 1900's when the
Havana Central Railroad Company commissioned the
construction of the adjacent wharf.
ANOTHER STEP FORWARD
The
brewery's privileged location allows those
interested to get a sense of the former life of the
port, the coming and going of ships which from
colonial times made Havana Bay an essential stop for
traders. The brewery offers its visitors food
service from its two grills and beer-lovers will
discover the expansive 37-meter bar, perhaps the
country’s longest.
Among the distinctive features of the establishment
are, no doubt, its tall glass jugs, tarros,
which can hold up to six pitchers, but the biggest
secret kept at the pub is the recipe for the beer
brewed on site. We found the experienced brewmaster
Wandy Márquez Suárez at work behind a glass wall,
which serves to maintain the cool temperature of the
tanks and, at the same time, allows the entire
process to be viewed. He briefly described the
brewing process which includes milling,
fermentation, conditioning and delivery. “We
currently work with five types of malted barley -
Pilsen, Munich, dark caramel, light caramel and
toasted – combining them in different proportions we
can achieve different colors and tastes in each one
of our beers. We craft three types of beer: light,
dark and black.”
The
restaurant specializes in light fare, including
grilled seafood, charcoaled meats and brochettes.
The site is enlivened with murals by Cuban visual
artists Edel Rodríguez Mola, Nelson Ponce and Raúl
Valdés, reflecting a dreamlike world of oceans and
beer, and includes a centrally placed stage for
small scale performances.

Among the distinctive features of the
establishment are its tall glass jugs, tarros, which
can hold up to six pitchers of cold beer.
Grether Rosado González, Habaguanex commercial
expert, explained that the brewery also “features an
overlook on its upper floor, circling the entire
building, which will offer an exceptional view of
the bay when the final touches underway are
completed. In the future, the back section of the
brewery on the old seawall will also house a
commercial center.”
The
Bay’s port operations are beginning to be
transferred to the new terminal in Mariel and
facilities left behind remain attractive as part of
the renovation project of the area, being undertaken
by the City Historian’s Office. The idea of a modern
waterfront boulevard with installations redesigned
as recreational sites is gradually becoming a
reality.
The hustle and bustle of the San José warehouse,
with its busy artisans’ fair, and the brewery, have
given the port area a new feel. The moment will
arrive when the merchant ships of Havana Bay will be
recalled with nostalgia, but by then residents and
visitors will have new recreational options, and the
city will have recovered an important part of its
waterfront. |