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Havana. April 10, 2014

ANCIENT WAREHOUSE REBORN AS BEER GARDEN
Beer on the waterfront

René A. Castaño Salazar Photos: Alberto Borrego

The renovation of Havana Bay has taken another step forward in efforts to convert this former industrial district into a modern recreational space for residents and visitors with the opening of an attractive beer garden on the waterfront, named Cervecería Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y el Tabaco (Old Wood and Tobacco Warehouse Brewery).

Located near the Alameda de Paula and the redeveloped San José warehouses, the site houses a mini-brewery equipped with Austrian technology and supplies. With a capacity for 430 persons, designers have harmoniously integrated functionality and contemporary style in a comfortable, spacious area.

Brewmasters Wandy Márquez and Belquis González operate equipment preparing barley which will used to brew beer.
Brewmasters Wandy Márquez and Belquis González operate equipment preparing barley which will used to brew beer.

The original architecture of the warehouse's metal structure, a jewel of Cuba's industrial heritage, was preserved, as were a few elements related to the building's former purpose, such as the lifts situated in the higher reaches of the interior corners and the rail lines, complete with locomotive, recalling the early 1900's when the Havana Central Railroad Company commissioned the construction of the adjacent wharf.

ANOTHER STEP FORWARD

The brewery's privileged location allows those interested to get a sense of the former life of the port, the coming and going of ships which from colonial times made Havana Bay an essential stop for traders. The brewery offers its visitors food service from its two grills and beer-lovers will discover the expansive 37-meter bar, perhaps the country’s longest.

Among the distinctive features of the establishment are, no doubt, its tall glass jugs, tarros, which can hold up to six pitchers, but the biggest secret kept at the pub is the recipe for the beer brewed on site. We found the experienced brewmaster Wandy Márquez Suárez at work behind a glass wall, which serves to maintain the cool temperature of the tanks and, at the same time, allows the entire process to be viewed. He briefly described the brewing process which includes milling, fermentation, conditioning and delivery. “We currently work with five types of malted barley - Pilsen, Munich, dark caramel, light caramel and toasted – combining them in different proportions we can achieve different colors and tastes in each one of our beers. We craft three types of beer: light, dark and black.”

The restaurant specializes in light fare, including grilled seafood, charcoaled meats and brochettes. The site is enlivened with murals by Cuban visual artists Edel Rodríguez Mola, Nelson Ponce and Raúl Valdés, reflecting a dreamlike world of oceans and beer, and includes a centrally placed stage for small scale performances.

Among the distinctive features of the establishment are its tall glass jugs, tarros, which can hold up to six pitchers of cold beer.
Among the distinctive features of the establishment are its tall glass jugs, tarros, which can hold up to six pitchers of cold beer.

Grether Rosado González, Habaguanex commercial expert, explained that the brewery also “features an overlook on its upper floor, circling the entire building, which will offer an exceptional view of the bay when the final touches underway are completed. In the future, the back section of the brewery on the old seawall will also house a commercial center.”

The Bay’s port operations are beginning to be transferred to the new terminal in Mariel and facilities left behind remain attractive as part of the renovation project of the area, being undertaken by the City Historian’s Office. The idea of a modern waterfront boulevard with installations redesigned as recreational sites is gradually becoming a reality.

The hustle and bustle of the San José warehouse, with its busy artisans’ fair, and the brewery, have given the port area a new feel. The moment will arrive when the merchant ships of Havana Bay will be recalled with nostalgia, but by then residents and visitors will have new recreational options, and the city will have recovered an important part of its waterfront. 

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